On september 11 in New York Riccardo Tisci gave the fashion world a show to remember as his collection of a remarkable 88 looks was one of the best he’s created in his 10 year run at Givenchy.
It comprised of both every day and also out-of-this-world looks; mixing his extensive knowledge in both popular streetwear and heavenly couture perfectly. The show even from the off was entrancing, immediately delivering a perfect equilibrium between light and dark, a faultless cascade of coherent style.
There was a main theme of soft romanticism about in the form of ivory leaf printed silk nightdresses; flimsy and sheer with a fitted waist quality, wrapped fabric tops and a type of girlishness not often seen at Givenchy in the form of softly looped bows and remnants of shawls layered and sewn onto dresses – this created an angelic-like aura about many pieces in all of their drapery and ethereal airiness. Darker pieces took a more gothic turn, though still delicate, with paper-thin calf length open dressing gowns, underneath you’d see a sheer top of cutout lace, and jet black pants which had a certain fluidity to them; such looks carried that of a kind of business woman insomniac, sleepily half dressed and swiftly put together, a concept that was incredibly executed throughout the whole show. Pieces became increasingly more extravagant as we neared the end, with dresses of feathers, fur, tulle – all paired with painstaking adornments to the face, these looks were heavily reminiscent of Riccardo’s earlier work, especially regarding his Couture creations.
These elaborate pieces had a slinky ruling Goddess sense about them, a certain creamy cappuccino coloured gold gem dotted off the shoulder piece I can imagine would be worthy for the likes of Daenerys Targaryen. Towards the end there were silver kissed pieces but at this point the crowd was already won over and mesmerised in a kind of hypnotic beautiful way. Personally there was not a single piece that I did not like and I have no doubt that this will be the standout collection of NYFW.
Givenchy has single handedly raised the bar for the whole Spring/Summer 2016 season, and I seriously praise that. Here are some of my favourite looks from the runway.